Villars-sur-Ollon, Switzerland (ski resort)

 

My last visit to Villars (population 1,500) was four years ago. We're having a hot spell and figure it would be cooler in this mountain ski resort. It is!  

I've also been corrected in that Switzerland has three other towns called Villars so, Villars-sur-Ollon is the correct name. Actually, at one time there were EIGHT villages/towns in Switzerland with the Villars name. Switzerland is a small country so how is it that the people didn't know about other towns having the same name when naming their town Villars? All eight towns were within 100 miles of each other. There's a similar problem in Germany with multiple towns having the same name. 

It's not even 9AM which explains the absence of activity on Villars main shopping street. As mentioned in my blog posted four years ago, Villars is home to four international boarding schools. One school, Beau Soleil is one of the most expensive schools in the world--sending your child there will set you back $150,000 a year. 

That overhead wiring you see and the tracks in the street are for the train that comes up from the valley below. About 99% of Switzerland's trains are electrified. Trains have been making their way up the mountain since 1901. My first visit to Villars was back in 2007 and I cycled up. Now, my bike and I hop on the train and enjoy a non-sweaty one hour ride up the mountain.

That big building in the back is the 5-star Villars Palace Hotel--more on that later.

You can see the valley floor below. 

This is the front of the 5-star Villars Palace Hotel. It dates back more than 100 years. The hotel recently reopened after being closed for many years and then undergoing years of renovations. Gotta go check it out.

The Villars Palace Hotel is a real beauty. There's an indoor/outdoor pool. This is the outdoor part. 

Whoa, after leaving the Palace Hotel I come across a huge crowd of people getting ready for some kind of event. 

Turns out it's a trail running race. There's a 30 mile run, 20 mile run and 10 mile run. See those mountains in the background? If you look really close you can see an antenna sticking out on the very top to the right. The run involves going up to the antenna via dirt trails, then coming down and going up and down two more mountain peaks. Wow! 

Cycling down the mountain I pass through several mountain villages. This village has a slew of very old chalets. This beauty dates back to 1751.

This chalet dates back to 1662 and sits right next door to the one in the previous photo.

So, a half-block down from chalets in the two previous photos stands this almost finished apartment complex. Boy, I bet it took years to get approved--it really changes the character of the village. 

A few miles from Bex (population 7,700) I pass this salt mine complex. Back in 1554 salt was discovered and put Bex on the map. Back in medieval times salt was as valuable as gold. Up the road a mile or so is a visitor center where they'll take you into the mines. 

Here's a train returning to Bex after its Villars run. 

The train weaves its way right through Bex's main street--coming within inches of buildings. 

Came across this new apartment building in Bex and can't figure out why this pole full of signage was put up. Were all those signs stolen or just copies? 

Chur, Switzerland

 

Chur (population 35,000) is the largest city in the region. Its valley location makes Chur the gateway to quite a few ski resorts up in the Alps. I'm on the city's pedestrian-only shopping street and kids are giving shoppers some entertainment with their dancing. 

This serious-looking structure on the main shopping street is a government building. 

Lots going on in this photo. 

Here's a closer looking at the man on stilts (he's not real). 

Old fire trucks from the region. Talking to a fire truck aficionado I learn they fix 'em up and drive them to various towns for display. 

Fountain.

More of Chur's main shopping street. 

It's a hot day and the city has set up this mist sprayer to cool off shoppers when they pass through. 

Church in the old town. 

St. Moritz, Switzerland

 

I've been to St. Moritz (population 5,000) multiple times but my last visit to this ritzy ski resort was in 2009. I'm back to see what changes (if any) are visible. Cycling into the town center I pass this new building housing very high-end fashion names.   

Directly across the street from the previous photo is the main entrance to the opulent Badrutt's Palace hotel. Dating back to 1896, the 5-star Badrutt's Palace is one of five hotels in St. Moritz with 5-stars. Why so many? Building permits for new homes/chalets are severely restricted and foreigners are prohibited from buying property which prevents neighboring Germans, Italians and flashy Russians from taking over the place.

This means jet-setters have to make do with bedding down in St. Moritz's slew of high-end hotel properties  

Located next door to Badrutt's Palace, this building houses more famous luxury brands.

This pedestrian-only street is lined with high-end shops.

Downtown street. Jeez, you know I have a sweet tooth and the two pastry/bakery shops in St. Moritz  are mediocre at best.  

See that yellow building? That's the Kulm Hotel. Dating back to 1864, the 5-star property boasts a slew of amenities including its own 9-hole Executive golf course--which they say is the highest golf course in the Alps. Hmm, I was just in Davos (reportedly the highest town in Europe)--with their golf course on the edge of town. Searching the Internet I find the elevation at St. Moritz 5,910 feet above sea level and Davos only 5,120 feet.  

This tennis complex belongs to the hotel. I snapped this photo to show the church tower to the right of the hotel. Yep, your eyes aren't deceiving you----that church tower is leaning (more on that later). 

This is the home of the St. Moritz Bobsleigh Club. They take winter sports pretty serious here. In 1928 and in 1948 St. Moritz hosted the Winter Olympics.

In the winter they still go zooming down the mountain. 

View over St. Moritz. That's Lake St. Moritz. 

Pisa, Italy has their famous leaning tower but so does St. Moritz. This tilting church tower dates back to 16th century.

It was several degrees cooler standing here. 

Another view above St. Moritz. 

Davos, Switzerland

 

Last time I was in Davos was 2007 and am curious as to what changes have come to this ski resort town of 10,500 inhabitants. With an elevation of 5,118 feet it's the highest town in Europe. 

Near the edge of Davos  I check the water in the Landwasser river: yep, it's nice and cold.

I cycle past Davos Golf Club.

Originally 9-holes when it first opened back in 1927 (by the British), Davos Golf Club now features 18-holes.

Lake near the outskirts of Davos.

Admiring the lake I spot a passing train but, behind the train in the woods a weird-looking structure poking out of the woods catches my eye.

Wow, this wasn't here during my last visit. The five-star AlpenGold hotel is shaped like an egg. 

The five-star Grandhotel Belvedere anchors the main street through town. Dating back to 1875, this Belle Epoque health resort was the big draw during its heyday. 

Most of the buildings and structures in Davos date from the 1960/1970's.  Too bad more buildings like this hotel aren't around to add character to the town.  

View of Davos coming from the northern entrance.

New apartment/condos complexes have been built since my 2007 visit. Why? You don't have to be a rocket scientist to figure it out: the World Economic Forum. 

Founded in 1971 by Klaus Schwab (now 88 years old and supposedly retired) the World Economic Forum has become a global star with investors/business leaders/political leaders/celebrities/media coming together every January for five days of pow-wows. These movers & shakers I'm sure are the ones gobbling-up the newly constructed housing.

Hard Rock hotel in downtown Davos with a former church part of the place.

Another view heading into Davos.

Fort L' Ecluse, France

 

In the distance you can see my destination: Fort L'Ecluse. That's a train bridge over the Rhone river. Behind the bridge you can see the fort. However, you need to look way above the fort to see a secondary fort. More about that later.  This narrow gorge has been a strategic stronghold since medieval times. 

If you were a traveler bringing goods or just passing through a toll was collected. An abbey was located on the site in 1184 and even back then the monks charged a toll. 

I'm getting closer to the lower fort which isn't visible from here. But, can you see the upper fort in the top right?  The upper fort was built between 1834-1848. Why? Back in 1815 the Austrians arrived and within three days the French surrendered. How did the Austrians manage to do that? They made their way up the backside of the mountain to where the upper fort is now located. From that position the Austrians proceeded to rain down a barrage of rocks.  

Years later the French were given the place back in a treaty. To be sure it never happened again--they spent 14 years building the upper fort. 

That speck of white under the telephone poles isn't a road but a mudslide. There's no road or trail leading to the upper fort. 

This is the fort's entrance on the French side.

In medieval times this was a drawbridge. 

This is the entrance to the fort if you were entering France from Switzerland (about 20 miles away). 

Back in the day, if you're entering the fort you'd wait for the drawbridge to be lowered. Soldiers up above the bridge would be looking down upon you from these positions.

From 1940-1945 the Germans controlled the fort. Here's a photo of a German guard on duty.

Because of what happened in 1815 the French decided to build an upper fort to prevent the enemy from again hurling down rocks/boulder from above. 

From 1834-1848 a tunneled stairway was dug INSIDE the mountain up to the upper fort. This was done by hand--not using dynamite. From the lower fort to the upper fort is 1,165 steps. To put this in context: from the base of the Statue of Liberty to her crown is a paltry 377 steps. The 1,165 steps is equivalent to taking the stairs up to the top of a 40-story building. 

I ask at the reception desk about making the trek up to the upper fort and was told they give certificates to those who do the climb.  Sounds like a challenge. So, off I go. Outside the temperature is in the mid-90's but it's a cool 50 something degrees inside as I start.  

It must have been cold and miserable being stationed here. Typical room where cannons were positioned. 

See the metal ring on the wall? Hauling heavy equipment such as cannons up must have been a major challenge. Ropes and metal rings helped in the hoisting. 

The steps go up, up and up and seemingly never end. Think about back in 1834 when construction was going on--flashlights hadn't been invented until 1899. Workers were working in the dark or using lanterns. 

This is about three quarters of the way up.

This is the view towards Switzerland taken from an opening in the stairway.

This is the view towards France.

Finally! I see the light and think I've reached the upper fort. Unfortunately it turns out to be a big disappointment. Why? That iron gate you see ahead is LOCKED! 

On the wall near the gate is a plaque with an interesting piece of trivia. Back in 2003 the annual G8 summit meeting took place in the spa town of Evian, France about 40 miles away. A battery of anti-aircraft missiles were installed on the grounds of the upper fort. One thing is for sure--a helicopter was used to hoist the missiles in place! 

It used to be called the G8 (USA, Italy, Germany, France United Kingdom, Canada, Japan and, Russia). But in 2014 Russia was booted out after it invaded Crimea. 

Returning down to the reception counter I ask why the gate was locked to the upper fort and was told it's "unsafe". Incredulous I ask, "why don't you inform visitors of this before they head up?" No answer.

I'll tell you the real reason it's locked. Before closing someone would have to hike up to the upper fort and check to make sure no visitors are still there and none of the employees want to make the long journey up and down. 

National highway route 84 used to pass right through the fort. In 1939 a tunnel was built under the fort. 

Since 1995 the fort is owned by local communities in the area.