Thursday, September 9, 2021

Sainte-Croix, Switzerland (Reuge mechanical music boxes)

 

The village of Sainte-Croix (population 4,500) sits high up in the Jura mountains. So, I arrive in Sainte-Croix and the first thing I do is fill my water bottle with delicious ice cold water from the water fountain. The date "1813" is stamped on the front of the fountain. For cities, towns and villages these water fountains were very important. Why? They were the social center. This is where locals got their drinking water, washed clothes etc.. plus, the latest gossip. Note the statue atop.

Side story. About 10 years ago I was cycling from Lausanne to one of my favorite bakeries. I came upon a woman cyclist stopped on the side of the road looking lost. Turns out she was an eye surgeon from San Francisco who was in Lausanne for a conference. She had the afternoon off and rented a bike. When she mentioned being an eye surgeon I asked, "you any good?" She replied, "I'm very good". I told her to come along with me as I'm heading to an excellent patisserie. We come to a water fountain. I'm filling my water bottle from the spigot and look over to see her with hands cupped taking water from the water trough and drinking. "What are you doing?!, don't drink that water!!, I yelled. Continuing I said, "I've seen people put their dogs in there to cool off, I've seen people rinsing dirty buckets in there and I've see construction workers and gardeners washing themselves off". Jokingly I said, "Jeez, I thought you said you were a very good doctor". Anyway, I spent the whole afternoon giving her a tour of the area. Why not? She was young (in her 30's), attractive and, smart---an eye surgeon no less! Then again, after the water incident I might have to take back the part about her being smart.  

 

View of Sainte-Croix. You head over the top of that hill and you'll shortly come to the Swiss/French border. 
Back in 2003 I came to Sainte-Croix to visit Reuge, maker of very high-end mechanical music boxes. It's Sunday and thought it would be fun to see if they're still in the same somewhat rundown building. 
The front entrance has the name "Reuge" on the doors but the place looks deserted. 

Here's the story from my 2003 visit:

I don't know the elevation here in Sainte-Croix, a town of about 4,500 inhabitants, but it's high. Why am I so sure? Oh I don't know, maybe it's the ski lifts visible on the nearby hillsides. 

Back in 1865 watchmaker Charles Reuge settled here to make musical pocket watches. His son Albert opened a workshop specializing in musical movements. Reuge Music was a family run business until 1988 when a group of Swiss investors purchased the company.

It's a five-minute walk from Sainte-Croix's city center to Reuge's four-story head office/factory. Built it 1929, the building looks and smells more like a gritty industrial factory manufacturing ball bearings than a place where fancy (and very expensive) music boxes are made. In the picture accompanying this story, the Reuge building is the long white structure in the middle of the photo. I took the picture from far away to make sure the grazing cow was included. 

You can't just walk into the building but have to be buzzed in. I'm greeted by Myriam Alliman, personal assistant to the CEO, who answers questions and shows me around. 

A total of 99 people works here and in a similar building a block down the street. By similar I mean the other building is just as old and gritty as this one. There's plenty of employee parking, smoking is allowed in the workplace and it's an hour and a half to Geneva's airport. There's no dress code, no recreational facilities and no company cafeteria-although there is a break room.

CEO Aldo Magada occupies a large corner office on the top floor. I note the laptop, three real plants and the great view of the scenic hillsides. Of course Magada has music boxes in his office-five to be exact. However, my favorite is the singing birds in the cage. Alliman winds it up and the realistic-looking birds start crooning away. The price? Alliman isn't sure but says it's in the thousands-as in dollars. Which reminds me, several large antique music-playing contraptions liven up the otherwise sparse décor in the reception area-by large I mean they're bigger than a jukebox. 


Back to the present. I stop a woman walking past and am told Reuge has moved to new offices on the other side of town. So, off I go. 


This guy (made out of paper mache?) perched on the grass greets people coming into town and of course he's politically correct with the mask on. Click on the image to enlarge.
As I was snapping a shot of paper mache man I look to the right and see this gigantic bird in someone's front yard. 
Across the open patch of land I see can Reuge's new offices/factory.  
Here it is, at the end of a new business park. I bet these digs are a far cry from Charles Reuge's workshop back in 1865. 
I see these all the time. What? The cat ladder going up to the second floor. 
Another water fountain. This one dates back to 1868. 

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