I've spent more than 25 summers in Switzerland and this year is easily the hottest. It has reached 100+ degrees more than 25 days. Don't know if you noticed but I've been cycling to mountain resorts and lakes to escape the heat.
I'm looking for an excuse to head up into the Jura Mountains, a mountain range that acts as a natural border between Switzerland and France.
Back in the summers of 2003 and 2004 I cycled around Switzerland visiting more than 100 watch and watch-related companies. The Swiss watch industry was/is fascinating, secretive and worth tens of billions of dollars. My receptions varied with many excellent receptions as well as many crummy ones.
I still like to periodically go on a weekend day and cycle past some of these watch companies to see if new buildings were built or added on. The industry has many, many watch enthusiasts and I've been told they love seeing my pictures--even if they're just the outside of buildings.
So, I'm in the Jura Mountains and more specifically on the main (and only) road through the village of Villeret (population 890). I read a recent article about Minerva producing their own line of watches. So?Minerva manufactures watch movement parts and traces its roots back to 1858 and until now never made watches. It has been located in the above building since 1902. Since 2007 it has been part of Monblanc (makers of watches and more widely known for its upscale writing instruments).
By allowing Minerva to have its own watch line Montblanc evidently thinks there's money to be made.
Closer look at the entrance to Minerva. In the previous photo you can see how the building is narrow with lots of windows--a dead give away it has something to do with watchmaking. Why? Watchmakers perform their work with delicate (and tiny) tools and natural light sure helps them see.
I visited Montblanc back in 2004 and had a crummy experience. It's still on my corporatetrivia.com website. I'm posting it here:
I already know where to find the watchmaking subsidiary of Montblanc thanks to cycling right past it last year (2003) on the way to visit its next door neighbor Tissot. Montblanc Montre wasn't on my list to visit in 2003 because it didn't (and still doesn't) have a separate website for its watches. Go to Montblanc's website and you see watches mixed in with leather goods, writing pens, jewellery and fragrance for men. So, why am I visiting? It's located in a drop-dead gorgeous art nouveau villa.
From Tissot's multi-building headquarters/factory complex on a steep hillside overlooking downtown Le Locle, one could toss a tennis ball onto Montblanc's property. Built in 1908, the four-story villa is a real beaut. When I passed the building in 2003 the finishing touches were being done on something you can't see in the photo that accompanies this story; a whole new level was built UNDER the villa. In the photo (click on to enlarge) take notice of the cars parked on the gravel that surrounds the building. The area of gravel denotes the size of the newly-built level under the villa. From the rear backside, the new level contains floor to ceiling glass and affords the 40 or employees with views of the well-kept grounds.
After locking the bike I walk to the front entrance steps and note the pile of 30 or so cigarette butts strewn about the gravel. Hmm, this must be where employees smoke. There's nothing tackier then visiting a company and having employees puffing away outside a building's entrance. First, I hate having to pass through the gauntlet of smokers and inhale the stench and second, the employees look sleazy smoking. Hasn't management seen the pile of disgusting-looking butts?
You can't walk into the building but have to buzz a buzzer. While buzzing the buzzer I admire the beautiful stained glass window. The door opens and a not-very-friendly woman asks what I want. I ask if there's a receptionist or reception desk and after being told "no", I explain to her who I am, what I do and how I sent a letter of introduction a month earlier to company director Hamdi Chatti. Without bothering to check with anyone, this woman says everyone is busy. It's now late in the afternoon so I leave background material and I tell the woman I'll return tomorrow.
I return the next morning and buzz the buzzer. This time the door doesn't open but a woman's voice comes over the speaker box. I recognize the unfriendly voice as the woman I encountered the day before. The woman says, "no one has time for you". Explaining this is my last day in Le Locle means nothing to this indifferent woman. I ask, "Would someone have 10 minutes sometime during the day to meet with me?" Her answer is a quick "no". I then ask if company director Chatti had received my letter of introduction. "Yes he has", the woman replies. I ask, "Do you have any kind of booklet or brochure on this building I could have?" In a minute the door opens and I'm allowed to step a few feet inside while she goes to her corner office she shares with a colleague and retrieves a booklet. After being handed the booklet I'm ushered out the door.
Wow, judging from the photos in the booklet the building's interior looks fantastic with art nouveau ornamental railings on the staircases, hardwood floors and stained glass windows mixed-in with modernistic furnishings. Heck, the villa even contains "five stylishly furnished suites with an entirely private atmosphere and a park with historic pavilions equipped with desks for reading and writing". Looking at photos of the suites in the booklet, these would easily rival lodgings in a five-star hotel. I wonder what criteria is used for extending invitations to spend the night?
Why was I treated so poorly? I haven't a clue. It's even more puzzling when you throw in the fact that Montblanc Montre is part of Richemont Group, the classy luxury goods concern.
Entering St. Imier (population 5,100) I can right away spot the Longines watch factory. I visited Longines (part of Swatch Group) back in 2003 and received a disappointing reception.
I'm taking the photo directly into the sun but had to in order to include the Longines sign.
Longines dates back to 1832 but has been on this site since 1867.
Longines is located on the valley floor but this pathway will take you up to the town center.
This is a backside view of the Longines factory/headquarters complex. Notice the narrow buildings with lots of windows? Natural lighting is important to watchmakers.
Still the backside of Longines. Several modern buildings have been added--see the blue structure in the middle and across from that a cream colored structure?
I remember being really disappointed in my 2003 reception as it was a pain-in-the-butt cycling to this isolated town in the mountains. It's still posted on my corporatetrivia.com website. I've posted the story here:
Riding into St-Imier I knew right away that the building complex hugging the valley floor in the distance was Longines' headquarters. How? From the narrow buildings. Yep, after visiting a slew of watch companies I've learned a few tricks of the trade. Narrow buildings increase the amount of light shining in on watchmakers' workbenches.
St-Imier, population 4,500, is spread upon a steep hillside overlooking part of the St-Imier valley. Longines' headquarters/factory, though here since 1832, still sits somewhat isolated on the valley's floor surrounded by unchanged farmland.
While waiting to find out who ended up with my letter of introduction sent a month earlier CEO Walter von Kaenel I plop down on one of the two black sofas and take in the elegant marbled floor reception/waiting area. Several large black and white photos of actress Audrey Hepburn (deceased) line one wall. Four vases of white lilies are scattered about along with six glass displays of watches. An oversized white bust of Ernest Francillon (1834-1900), one of the founders of Longines, occupies a corner spot.
An assistant to von Kaenel appears in the lobby and says von Kaenel isn't here today and that no one knows anything about my letter. I explain what I do and she (I'm sorry I don't get her name) heads off to find someone to meet with me. In a few minutes she returns and says if I wait about 10 minutes Phillppe Kloeti, Human Resources Manager, will be here. I thank her and tell her that my most unusual request is to see the CEO's office. Is it possible to see von Kaenel's office? It turns out to be no problem for this helpful woman. It's a five-story building with von Kaenel occupying a corner office on the second floor. He sits behind a large horseshoe-shaped table. Don't see any plants, note the computer and the three watch advertisements on one wall. His view out the window? The town of St-Imier up the hill.
Around 240 people work here. Employee parking is plentiful with cyclists enjoy covered spaces, smoking is allowed in the workplace and there's a cafeteria. Meeting rooms are named after people in the company and there's no formal dress code. It's 30 minutes to the nearest freeway, two hours to Zurich's airport and, employees enjoy discounts on watches (Longines has been part of the Swatch Group for 20 years).
My meeting with the disinterested Kloeti lasts all of five minutes. How was my tour of this facility that dates back more than 150 years? What tour? We sat on the lobby sofas for five minutes and that was the extent of it.
I had heard of Longines' 400-piece watch museum. However, my request to see it was quickly quashed by Kloeti. Why? It's by appointment only. Somehow I have the feeling it could have happened if Kloeti wanted it to. It's pretty frustrating having made it to this off-the-beaten-path-location and then given a dismal reception.
Directly across the street from Longines I notice this new building. Hmm, I bet it has something to do with watches.
Yep, I google the name on the front entrance (DM Decors SA) and learn they manufacture high-end decorations of watch components (watch dials). Bet they do business with Longines.
Spot these buildings in St. Imier and the old building on the right has the look of a watch building (narrow with lots of windows).
Turns out the two buildings are connected by an elevated walkway but the old building appears empty.
So, this sign on the newer of the two buildings reads "COSC"---stands for "Controle Officiel Suisse des Chronometres".
I had heard about COSC. What do they do? It's a neutral, independent institution that certifies the accuracy of a watch. Each watch is tested using various machines (taking over a week). If the watch passes muster a certificate will then be issued certifying the results.
With three locations and 165 employees COSC tests over two million watches and movements a year. Sounds like a lot but it's only 3% of Swiss watches produced.
Some say this is a marketing gimmick giving watchmakers a reason to charge more. From what I've read Rolex is the biggest user of COSC.
Here's a view coming into Le Locle (population 10,000)
This is the factory/head office for Zenith watches (visited in 2003) near the edge of town in Le Locle. The four story building with the big banner is the head office with factory structures behind. Those factory buildings date back to 1865 (when Zenith was founded). It's now owned by LVMH, the French luxury giant.
Don't see any new buildings but I'm not surprised as the factory complex can't be demolished as it's a protected/historic site.
Always been impressed by Le Locle's city hall.
On the main drag through Le Locle I spot this new building with the name Inhotec. The company specializes in the production of high-precision watch movements and components.
There are over 700 Swiss watchmaking companies and manufacturers. Only a handful make every single component of a watch with outsourcing a very common industry practice. If I were to walk into Inhotec and ask for names of their clients I'd be booted out.
I'm heading out of Le Locle via a mountain route I've never taken before. Up on the right you can see a large building and it turns out to be a new business park with other buildings. Better check it out.
I wonder who occupies this place?
Whoa, it's a watch manufacturing facility for Audemars Piguet.
Outside the entrance to Audemars Piguet there's this rabbit sculpture and he looks to be checking the time on a pocket watch. 
To the left of Audemars Piguet is this building. Hmm, I bet it's a watch company.
Closer inspection and the sign says it's a Cartier jewelry manufacturing facility. 
From the rear of the Cartier building I snap this photo. See that giant cream colored splotch? 
Here's a better look using the camera zoom. They have been mining the side of the mountain. Anyway, to the left is Col des Roches, a mountain pass. That deep narrow gorge has a road and train tracks passing though. On the other side you're in France. 
Cycling out the valley floor I pass this WW2 pillbox. Switzerland was worried Germany would invade via France----using that road through the gorge I showed you in the previous photo. 
So after reaching the mountain pass I head down the other side and spot two more pillboxes (the second is up the road on the right). 
That's Lake Neuchatel in the distance.
