Fort L' Ecluse, France

 

In the distance you can see my destination: Fort L'Ecluse. That's a train bridge over the Rhone river. Behind the bridge you can see the fort. However, you need to look way above the fort to see a secondary fort. More about that later.  This narrow gorge has been a strategic stronghold since medieval times. 

If you were a traveler bringing goods or just passing through a toll was collected. An abbey was located on the site in 1184 and even back then the monks charged a toll. 

I'm getting closer to the lower fort which isn't visible from here. But, can you see the upper fort in the top right?  The upper fort was built between 1834-1848. Why? Back in 1815 the Austrians arrived and within three days the French surrendered. How did the Austrians manage to do that? They made their way up the backside of the mountain to where the upper fort is now located. From that position the Austrians proceeded to rain down a barrage of rocks.  

Years later the French were given the place back in a treaty. To be sure it never happened again--they spent 14 years building the upper fort. 

That speck of white under the telephone poles isn't a road but a mudslide. There's no road or trail leading to the upper fort. 

This is the fort's entrance on the French side.

In medieval times this was a drawbridge. 

This is the entrance to the fort if you were entering France from Switzerland (about 20 miles away). 

Back in the day, if you're entering the fort you'd wait for the drawbridge to be lowered. Soldiers up above the bridge would be looking down upon you from these positions.

From 1940-1945 the Germans controlled the fort. Here's a photo of a German guard on duty.

Because of what happened in 1815 the French decided to build an upper fort to prevent the enemy from again hurling down rocks/boulder from above. 

From 1834-1848 a tunneled stairway was dug INSIDE the mountain up to the upper fort. This was done by hand--not using dynamite. From the lower fort to the upper fort is 1,165 steps. To put this in context: from the base of the Statue of Liberty to her crown is a paltry 377 steps. The 1,165 steps is equivalent to taking the stairs up to the top of a 40-story building. 

I ask at the reception desk about making the trek up to the upper fort and was told they give certificates to those who do the climb.  Sounds like a challenge. So, off I go. Outside the temperature is in the mid-90's but it's a cool 50 something degrees inside as I start.  

It must have been cold and miserable being stationed here. Typical room where cannons were positioned. 

See the metal ring on the wall? Hauling heavy equipment such as cannons up must have been a major challenge. Ropes and metal rings helped in the hoisting. 

The steps go up, up and up and seemingly never end. Think about back in 1834 when construction was going on--flashlights hadn't been invented until 1899. Workers were working in the dark or using lanterns. 

This is about three quarters of the way up.

This is the view towards Switzerland taken from an opening in the stairway.

This is the view towards France.

Finally! I see the light and think I've reached the upper fort. Unfortunately it turns out to be a big disappointment. Why? That iron gate you see ahead is LOCKED! 

On the wall near the gate is a plaque with an interesting piece of trivia. Back in 2003 the annual G8 summit meeting took place in the spa town of Evian, France about 40 miles away. A battery of anti-aircraft missiles were installed on the grounds of the upper fort. One thing is for sure--a helicopter was used to hoist the missiles in place! 

It used to be called the G8 (USA, Italy, Germany, France United Kingdom, Canada, Japan and, Russia). But in 2014 Russia was booted out after it invaded Crimea. 

Returning down to the reception counter I ask why the gate was locked to the upper fort and was told it's "unsafe". Incredulous I ask, "why don't you inform visitors of this before they head up?" No answer.

I'll tell you the real reason it's locked. Before closing someone would have to hike up to the upper fort and check to make sure no visitors are still there and none of the employees want to make the long journey up and down. 

National highway route 84 used to pass right through the fort. In 1939 a tunnel was built under the fort. 

Since 1995 the fort is owned by local communities in the area. 

 

Biberach, Germany & Bad Schussenried, Germany

It's 8 AM and I'm in the town center of Biberach searching for my favorite sandwich. I've been to another metzgerei (butcher shop) nearby and had no luck so now I'm trying this one. 
 

I walk inside and check out the hot food--there's chicken legs and several variations of ham but, not the item I'm hoping to find. As I turn to exit a woman comes out from the back carrying a tray. Whoa, there it is! See that piece of meat to the right of the chicken legs? That my friends is a pork roast German-style. The top is crispy and crunchy (it's fat). The white you see in the middle is fat and the meat is juicy and tender. The woman cuts a big slice of the pork, puts it on a sandwich roll and adds some mustard. I've been going crazy for these pork sandwiches for years. The price is right too--usually around $3.50. Absolutely delicious! 

The correct name of Biberach (population 32,000) is Biberach an der Riss. Riss is the name of the river running through town and eventually flowing into the Danube. This is the main square with the tower of St. Martin's church in the background.

Nice fountain though it's being repaired.

This lookout tower in Biberach dates back hundreds of years. 

Wanted to get the orange colored building into the shot in Biberach's town square 

In German the word "bad" means bath. In Germany there're 350 designated spa towns. But, to have the "Bad" before the name of your town requires being government approved as the town has to have a therapeutic bath house. I've written about this before. Until the 1990's when laws were changed, the government would pay half the cost of staying at a spa. This was a gold mine for spa towns. 

So, those are three spa towns listed on the signs. I'm making a detour to Bad Schussenried as the writing in brown means there's something historic. I've nixed heading to the Unesco world heritage site on the top sign. Why? It's a prehistoric pile of dwellings built on stilts. I'm a big fan of any medieval but, prehistoric or Roman times doesn't interest me. 

To the left in the photo you can see the entrance to Schussenried Abbey

Schussenried Abbey dates back to the 12th century. It's a very large complex. That building on the right is the chapel. The highlight of the abbey is the Baroque library on the second floor of this building. Just my luck it's closed today. 

Somebody is good with a chainsaw as these two woodcarving figures guard the entrance to the main building. 

This is inside Schussenried Abbey's chapel. 

I've written about this numerous times. In Germany and Austria these cigarette vending machines are everywhere--and frequently on residential street corners. What's to stop kids from plopping in coins and grabbing a pack? No wonder those countries have high rates of smokers.

Cycling through rural farmland I spot the very large complex of buildings up on a hill in a village. This is Reute Monastery that dates back to the 14th century. Behind these structures are about half-dozen apartment buildings from the 1950's to 1980's. I talk to a woman and find the whole compound is owned by the Roman Catholic church and it's where nuns are sent when they retire.  Major renovations are taking place. Monasteries seem to be everywhere in this region. 

Memmingen, Germany

 I'm about 60 miles due west of Munich. I always think it's so cool to enter a town for the first time and have to pass through a medieval gate. Menningen, population 42,000, in medieval times had 10 of these town gates. This one is Ulmer gate.

Main square in Memmingen.

Another shot of main square.

This Renaissance-style building is Memmingen's town hall.  

Couldn't find out what this building was built for but, it's a beauty. 

A brook flows through the town.

The second of the two remaining medieval town gates.

People hanging out in downtown Memmingen. 

Ulm, Germany

 

I'm about 90 miles west of Munich and this is a shopping street in downtown Ulm, population 130,000. Seems like there's nothing special about it right?  On the contrary. See that church in the background? That's Ulm Minster, at 530 feet, it's the world's tallest church building.

Getting closer I can't get the whole church and its spire in one shot. That glass pyramid building is the city library.

Ulm Minster is not a cathedral. Why? It's a Lutheran church. This Gothic giant was started in the 14th century and wasn't completed until 1890. Its spire is also the highest in the world

Nice old town area with lots of restaurants.

Creek runs through the old town area.

Don't know what this birdie is doing.

Water fountain.

That's the Danube River flowing through the city with parts of the old medieval walls still visible.

There's a pedestrian/cycling route along the river bank. See that lookout tower?

You aren't imaging it but, that thing is purposely tilting. 

Beautiful town hall building which dates back to 1370. 

Side view of town hall. Those clocks (two) still work. 

Another fountain--though it's too wide for me to reach in and fill my water bottle. 

This is the entrance to the main police station.

Had to go inside the police courtyard to fill my water bottle from their fountain. 

The last medieval portal gate still standing in Ulm. Oh, and one final piece of trivia. Albert Einstein was born in Ulm.