Cyclist Paul's Travels: Bellelay Abbey (Bellelay, Switzerland)

I've been looking for an excuse to escape the summer heat and caught an article in the newspaper about Bellelay Abbey, a former monastery dating back to 1142 that is now a psychiatric clinic deep in the Jura Mountains. Much of the Jura Mountain range forms a natural border/barrier between Switzerland and France. Getting to isolated Bellelay Abbey involves going through multiple narrow valleys. It will be in the low 90's today but there's a slight reprieve heading down to the fogged-in town of Tavannes.

Tavannes (population 3,500) has no stoplights and on the main road through town I spot this former Tavannes Watch building. It's now apartments and it's connected to the building behind it. More than 20 years ago I spent two summers cycling around Switzerland visiting over 100 watch companies and writing about it. You can still read 'em on my www.corporatetrivia.com website.

Later in the evening I do a Google search and learn Tavannes Watch Company began in 1891. By 1938 Tavannes Watch had four factories, employeed over 3,000 people and was the fourth largest watch company in the world. In 1966 it went kaput.

The village of Bellelay lies ahead.

What the heck, is that a bull in front of the white building?

In addition to the bull, the front of the white building also features two cows in serious combat. Closer inspection reveals the animals are made of hay.

I'm in front of the white building which says it's some kind of museum/store. They aren't open today. The vending machine sells Tete de Moine cheese. Never heard of the cheese but then again Switzerland has hundreds of brands and varieties. In 1142 monks at the monastery (Bellelay Abbey) were making this semi-hard cheese. In the 1970's cheese dairies in the region banded together and formed Tete de Moine AOP, a cheese cooperative, to market the cheeses.

So, here's the entrance to Bellelay Abbey.

Built in 1714, the main building is very impressive.

Another view from the side. Why is the place deserted? The newspaper article said the place was turned into a psychiatric clinic years ago.

I run into an attractive woman (I'd guess to be around 25 years old) walking the grounds with her dog, cat (yep, the cat is trailing along) and her two daughters on bikes (one looks to be around four and the other six years old). The woman says the psychiatric clinic closed down last year. This was a big blow to the village as it employeed 341 people. The Canton Bern owns the complex and had operated the clinic since 1890. In the USA we have states and in Switzerland they have cantons.

Though I enjoyed talking to the woman she had an off-putting feature--a nose ring. I don't understand why a woman would do that. Does she really think it's attractive? Doesn't snot come out of noses? She has no visible tattoos and as mentioned is quite attractive. I see cows and pigs with nose rings. Those of you who know me know I'm not very tactful and can be very blunt as I've been known to tell a stranger they have bad breath or stinky perfume. However, I bite my tongue and wonder if her daughters will copy mom and get nose rings later in life.

Another view of the former Bellelay Abbey complex. The place has quite a history. In 1772 it was a monastery university housing more than 100 students from throughout Europe. In the 19th century the premises were used as a watch factory, then as a brewery and finally as a glass factory before becoming a psychiatric clinic in 1890.